Oily skin — causes and skincare guide
Oily skin — how to avoid over-drying it
Oily skin produces too much sebum, which is characterized by enlarged pores, excessive shine 2–3 hours after cleansing, and a tendency toward acne and comedones. However, oily skin tends to age more slowly due to this excess sebum.
Problem: enlarged pores, blackheads, oily shine just 2 hours after cleansing.
This happens because of overactive sebaceous glands, often triggered by hormones or an incorrect skincare routine. Excess sebum mixes with dead skin cells and forms “plugs” in the pores. Very often, oily skin is over-dried with alcohol-based products, and the skin starts producing even more sebum to protect itself.
Oily skin: causes, tips, and skincare solutions
Sebaceous glands in oily skin are enlarged and hyperactive due to increased sensitivity to androgens. They can produce up to 300 mcg of sebum/cm²/hour compared to approximately 100 mcg. Sebum is composed of triglycerides, squalene, wax esters, and cholesterol. When exposed to air and the P. acnes bacteria, it oxidizes and contributes to the formation of comedones and inflammation.
Internal factors:
- Genetics — the size and activity of sebaceous glands are determined by genes by 50–80%.
- Hormones — androgens, especially DHT, stimulate sebum production.
- Stress — cortisol can increase sebum secretion by up to 40%.
- Diet — foods with a high glycemic index and dairy products may contribute to excess sebum production.
External factors:
- Over-drying the skin — paradoxically stimulates even more sebum production as a compensatory reaction.
- Aggressive skincare products — the skin tries to defend itself and becomes even oilier.
- Clogged pores — oxidized sebum can no longer properly reach the surface.
Critical mistake: when sebum is aggressively stripped away, the skin receives the signal: “I no longer have protection!” and starts producing even more oil. This is how a vicious cycle forms.
Daily skincare routine steps for oily skin
- Gentle two-step cleansing in the evening: cleansing oil + cleansing foam.
In the morning, cleansing is also necessary. - Gentle exfoliation 2–3 times per week: mild gommage, enzyme powders, acids, or clay masks.
- Toning the skin to restore the pH balance after cleansing.
Ingredients that help regulate sebum production:
- niacinamide (5–10%)
- zinc PCA
- BHA (salicylic acid 0.5–2%)
- LHA
- mandelic acid
- azelaic acid
- tea tree
- green tea
- witch hazel
- retinoids
Choose a lightweight cream with ingredients such as:
- beta-glucan
- allantoin
- centella asiatica
- propolis
- tea tree
And do not forget about sun protection.
What to avoid:
- Alcohol-based toners — they mattify temporarily but worsen the problem.
- Abrasive exfoliants — they traumatize the skin and can encourage inflammation.
- Very dense creams with a lot of silicone — they can create an occlusive film.
Common skincare mistakes
- Washing the face 3 or more times a day — this can trigger compensatory overproduction of sebum.
- Using only mattifying products without hydration — the skin becomes dehydrated.
- Skipping cream — the skin may start producing even more sebum.
- Squeezing comedones — this damages the pores and can lead to scars.
- If you feel that “SPF makes the skin oily,” choose lightweight gel-type formulas.
- High concentrations of oils can intensify the feeling of oily skin.
- Excess spicy, heavily seasoned or salty foods, alcohol, smoking, and simple carbohydrates can worsen the condition of oily skin.
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