Blackheads, small bumps beneath the skin, pores that always seem clogged, and uneven skin texture can all share the same underlying cause: the buildup of sebum and dead skin cells inside the pores.

Comedones are one of the most common forms of acne and can appear even when the skin has no inflamed pimples. The problem is that trying to “deep clean” pores too aggressively can have the opposite effect, leading to increased irritation, sensitivity, and an even more uneven-looking complexion.

The key is not to “open” pores or manually extract their contents every day, but to use ingredients that help prevent clogged pores while keeping the skin barrier healthy.

Comedones develop when sebum, dead skin cells, and other debris accumulate inside a hair follicle. There are two main types:

Closed comedones (whiteheads) form when the follicular opening is covered by skin. They appear as small, white or skin-colored bumps.

Open comedones (blackheads) form when the follicular opening remains exposed. Their dark color does not mean that the pore contains “dirt.” Instead, it results from the oxidation of accumulated material when exposed to air.

This is why vigorous scrubbing and harsh physical exfoliants do not effectively address blackheads. They may irritate the skin’s surface without targeting the underlying process that causes pores to become clogged.

• excess sebum production;
• excessive buildup of dead skin cells;
• skincare products that are too occlusive for your skin’s needs;
• inadequate removal of makeup or sunscreen;
• overuse of active skincare ingredients and damage to the skin barrier;
• hormonal changes;
• genetic predisposition;
• acne;
• a skincare routine that is not suited to your skin type.

Having oily skin does not automatically mean you have clogged pores, and dry skin can also develop comedones.

That’s why your skincare routine should address the underlying causes of clogged pores, rather than focusing solely on your skin type.

When it comes to comedones and blackheads, one of the most important ingredients is salicylic acid, also known as BHA.

As an oil-soluble ingredient, salicylic acid can work within the sebum-rich environment of the pores, helping to remove the buildup that contributes to comedone formation. Dermatological guidelines recognize it as a useful option for managing acne and clogged pores.

While BHA helps unclog pores, retinoids work primarily by regulating the process of skin cell renewal and shedding within the hair follicles.

Topical retinoids are recommended in dermatological guidelines for acne because they help unclog pores and prevent new comedones from forming.

Niacinamide is a popular ingredient in skincare products targeting visible pores and excess sebum, but it is important to understand its role.

It does not “dissolve” comedones in the same way as a BHA exfoliant and is not a primary treatment for already clogged pores.

However, niacinamide may help with:

• reducing the appearance of excess sebum;
• supporting the skin barrier;
• minimizing unwanted shine;
• improving the appearance of uneven skin texture;
• soothing the skin.

It can be particularly beneficial as a complementary ingredient in skincare routines for combination or oily skin.

Azelaic Acid: The Underrated Ingredient

Azelaic acid is another ingredient recommended in dermatological guidelines for acne management. It can help address clogged pores and inflammation while also reducing the appearance of post-acne marks.

Clay masks are also very popular in K-Beauty. They can help temporarily absorb excess sebum, leaving the skin feeling cleaner and less oily.

Squeezing blackheads is one of the most common skincare mistakes. Repeated squeezing and pressure can lead to:

• inflammation;
• minor skin injuries;
• post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation;
• scarring;
• worsening of existing blemishes.

Professional extractions can be beneficial in certain cases, but they should be performed correctly rather than becoming a daily habit at home.

1. Assuming that stinging means a product is working – An intense burning sensation is not a sign of effectiveness. Using BHA, an exfoliating acid toner, a chemical peel, retinol, and a cleansing mask all at once can compromise the skin barrier and increase sensitivity.
2. Exfoliating daily because you have oily skin – Oily skin does not automatically require daily exfoliation. For example, start by using a BHA product 2–3 times per week, depending on its concentration and the manufacturer’s instructions.
3. Using physical scrubs to remove blackheads – Blackheads are not simply “dirt stuck” to the skin’s surface. While a scrub may temporarily smooth the outer layer of the skin, it does not address the underlying follicular blockage. Excessive scrubbing can also worsen inflammation.
4. Using overly rich skincare products just because your skin is dehydrated – Skin prone to comedones can also be dehydrated. However, the solution is not necessarily a very thick moisturizer. If a product consistently leaves your skin feeling congested and you notice more comedones after introducing it, it may be worth reconsidering. The term “non-comedogenic” can be a helpful guideline, although it does not guarantee that every product will work equally well for everyone.
5. Changing your skincare routine every three days – Comedones do not disappear overnight. Allow approximately 6–8 weeks to evaluate the effectiveness of an acne treatment before considering it ineffective, provided your skin tolerates it well. If you introduce five new products in the same week and experience irritation, it will be difficult to identify which one caused the reaction.
6. Trying to permanently “shrink” your pores – Pores do not open and close like doors. Their size is influenced by factors such as genetics, sebum production, skin elasticity, and the degree of congestion. Clogged pores and excess sebum can make pores appear larger, while consistent skincare and sun protection can help improve their appearance.

At moonglow.md, you’ll find a dedicated selection of skincare products for clogged pores and blackheads, featuring ingredients such as BHA, niacinamide, Zinc PCA, Centella Asiatica, and other components designed for congestion-prone skin.

A practical approach would be:

• For mildly clogged pores: Start with a low-concentration BHA product, using it a few times per week.
• For persistent blackheads: Consider a higher-concentration BHA product, provided your skin tolerates it well.
• For recurring comedones: A retinoid may be gradually introduced into your skincare routine.
• For excess sebum: Niacinamide and sebum-regulating ingredients can help complement your routine.

Managing comedones and clogged pores requires consistency, not aggressive treatments. The most important steps are:

Cleanse your skin properly, choose a suitable exfoliant, introduce retinoids gradually, and protect your skin barrier.

At moonglow.md, you can find products for every step of your skincare routine, from BHA exfoliants and blackhead treatments to retinoids, soothing skincare products, and SPF sunscreens — with delivery throughout the Republic of Moldova.