10 questions about Korean skincare you were afraid to ask

“No. The application order should not be changed. Each step is based on a specific texture. If you apply a thicker texture first and then a lighter one, the latter simply won’t penetrate and will remain on the surface. In the end, everything will pill and roll off your skin.”

“Retinol and retinal are not recommended. Retinyl palmitate – if you used it frequently before, it is not strictly necessary to remove it. Avoid salicylic acid over 2%, hydroquinone, and microneedles. All other ingredients should be used cautiously, depending on individual needs.”

“In the European skincare system, tonic is a cleansing product that removes makeup residues and balances the skin’s pH.
In the Korean skincare system, where two-step cleansing is used, toner is already the first step of hydration, in a liquid texture (unless it’s an acid), applied to perfectly cleansed skin.”

“Korean skincare works beautifully. But to boost results and work deeper into other skin layers, gadgets come into play. For example, microcurrents smooth the face and muscles, much like flattening a wrinkled carpet. Some devices help products penetrate much deeper, and drainage functions are performed more effectively by gadgets than by skincare with draining ingredients. In short, gadgets operate on another level and complement your routine.”

“Ideally, there should be a 2–3 minute pause between each step. If you apply cream immediately after serum, it may streak white and disappoint you. Let each product “stand alone” for 2–3 minutes. Between toner and serum – 1 minute, between serum and cream or emulsion – 2–3 minutes, and between cream and SPF – about 10 minutes. If you apply a chemical-filter SPF, wait 15 minutes before applying foundation or BB cream.”

“No. Layering SPFs does not improve protection. Only the SPF with the higher factor will work. Choose one good SPF cream and stick to it. Don’t rely on the SPF in BB cream or foundation – we don’t apply them in sufficient quantity to offer real protection (and remember: the correct SPF amount is equal to two fingers).

If I apply SPF, then foundation with SPF, which works?
“Your SPF cream will work.”

“Essence contains a high concentration of active ingredients, but not as high as serum. After the age of 30, you shouldn’t skip either – they have different textures and complement each other. A thicker texture pushes the lighter one deeper. The concentration of actives is higher in serum.

Possible steps:
Toner – essence – cream
or
Toner – serum – cream
After 30, you can add an extra step.”

“Yes.”

“We’re all different, so you should listen to your skin. Start with one step, see how your skin reacts, then add another. If your skin doesn’t like it, it doesn’t need it. It’s all about your personal feel.”

“Yes, cleansing oil must be followed by a second step – a gel or foam cleanser – to remove the remaining oil, dissolved sebum, and makeup. Otherwise, you risk clogging your pores.

Cleansing oil vs micellar water

We always recommend cleansing oil because:
1. It doesn’t damage the skin barrier.
2. Oil dissolves oil, and cleansing oil loves water, turning into an emulsion upon contact.

Micellar waters, in short, are alkaline soaps that, if not removed, damage the skin barrier; plus, the friction from a cotton pad irritates the skin. Healthy skin has a healthy barrier, so micellar water should only be used in emergencies.

For daily use, choose cleansing oil.
SPF should also be removed with cleansing oil – always. Micellar water cannot fully remove SPF from the skin.”